bearable flatness

If you're Indian and you're more than 20 years old, chances are your family didn't have an oven at home growing up, and all baked goods were bought from the local Irani or -- on a special occasion -- Monginis.

Every house I've been in since 1991 has had a full featured cooking range with oven in it, yet I haven't tried to bake anything in them since perhaps the late nineties. Ovens around the house have been used to store various extra pots and pans and other things. The microwave has an overhead grill element so I've used that sometimes, but it's quite a pain since it takes forever to reach a good heat and has no temperature settings of its own. There is this small electric oven my mother bought ten years ago, but since that sucks up so much power it's carefully packed away awaiting some future time when it will be put to good use as a towel warmer or something. Both the electric oven and the microwave also suffer from a small size, meaning that if I have to make pizza I need to cook each one individually (that's 40 minutes gone right there).

The current apartment came with its own cooker but while I've put the stove-tops to good use I didn't even bother -- like, it seems, the previous tenant -- to even turn on the oven. This is a bit of a sacreligious thing for someone who could probably live only on raw, grilled and baked goods forever, but I've never been much of a home baker other than the odd cake-from-a-box and the twice-yearly or so attempt at pizza (so far in the microwave grill).

Yesterday I figured I might as well clean out the oven and see if, after all these years, it actually works. Turned out to be in good shape, was relatively easy to light and use (the first oven I ever used had no light and its match-hole was waaaay at the back in one corner, which made lighting it a game of Russian Roulette with exploding LPG). It has its own rotary grill attachment with self-turning kebab skewers for even cooking (a nice touch), and an easy to light overhead gas grill.

In order to test the thing I whipped up some pizza using store-bought sauce (I found a brand that doesn't taste like tin), cheese, zucchini, mushrooms and spicy sausage. For the bases I used Egyptian flat bread. I've even tried pitta bread and chapattis and they work fine as long as you don't overcook them.

Which brings me to the only problem I encountered. Unfortunately in the hot oven, by the time the toppings were all cooked the edges of the (already cooked) flatbread had turned rock hard. It wasn't too bad, seeing as everything that was under the toppings was soft, but not something I would like in a pizza. I tried another batch, and this time instead of the oven I just put the tray higher and lit the grill without a pre-heat. I tried the much thinner pitta bread with that, and it worked like a charm.

I finally have a working oven I can just chuck a bunch of stuff into. Thank God, all that cooking was cutting into my pr0n work time!


Comments

Thought of making your own pizza dough? It isn't hard!

I don't make pizza often enough to try it (and anything I keep in the freezer, as a rule, disappears until I find it shrivelled up decades later), but I probably should attempt to make bread of some kind at least once. For instance, I have yet to taste 'pav' bread in Dubai that tastes anything like the stuff we get in Mumbai. That seems like a worthy project.

Next time you're up for making pizza, don't bother with prepackaged pizza sauce if you can help it. The best flavor you're going to get is with crushed tomatoes (canned do quite well here, though I imagine crushing your own would be fun) and added seasonings to taste.

And homemade bread is its own joy, though it is enough of a pain that it's hard to keep in the habit.

Unfortunately I live in a dustbowl, which means that fresh local tomatoes taste like water, and imported tomatoes cost more than a house. I do make pasta sauce with the canned stuff, mostly because that has a level of tartness that the same amount of fresh ones just don't have. Once this jar of sauce is over I'll probably just make some fresh stuff and freeze it for later. I'll probably have to buy some smaller tomatoes and over-ripen them at home.

In India even the tiniest ones are just bursting with flavour (of course, compared to here everything in India has more flavour).

And I agree about homemade breads; there's nothing like homemade chapatti or cake. I'm going to have to crack the secret of good pav* on my own. Nobody else in this country seems to have got it. On the other hand, nobody in any of the regular bakeries in Mumbai seem to have gotten baguettes either.

Of course, when you have a good brun**, why should you bother?

*(a six-pack of buns, soft upper crust that only cracks at the very top of each dome, spongy, faintly yeasty. Called so because traditionally they were kneaded with the feet -- pav or pao meaning foot in Hindi. Tears wonderfully in long, ragged stretches -- never clumps -- and soaks up butter, conspires with garlic chutney and chick-pea-battered, fried potato slices to produce stupefying results, and generally goes to town with this particular potato bhaji so well they just call the dish pav bhaji now)

**(crusty variant of the above, same spongy oval lattice structure to the cooked dough. Very much like a baguette, but the crust is more well-formed, darker, more bitter on the underside -- hence the name, probably -- and somehow the insides remain pillowy soft for immediate assault by Amul -- and only Amul -- butter.)

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Vishal K Bharadwaj is a generalist; a writer, graphic designer, illustrator, photographer and all-round crazy person.

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